Kitsuke Day

A kimono dealer in Japan mentioned that he might, potentially, possibly maybe, get a small spot on a news show about his shop. Even if this isn't possible, I don't normally leave photos with reviews unless it makes the item look good (or the item is defective. Then people deserve to know something is wrong.) But... possibly, maybe?

"Estate Sale" style lots of assorted items to bid on is not common in Japan like it is here. So odd lots of old kimono are very cheap, often $100 USD or less for half a dozen items. But they aren't necessarily items that would be worn together, if someone has a sense of formality, colours, types of kimono, etc. They're great for mixing with yofuku or maybe photoshoots as-is, but if using as intended...

Look y'all. The autistic gaijin kimono collector most certainly didn't take this as a sign to make review photos as perfect as possible. Right? 

Doing this wrong is so embarrassing. 

Since the mannequin only raises so much, all kimono are tied similarly to hikizuri, trailing kimono. Proper modern kimono are worn ankle-length.

Where were these taken?

My office is always a mess. Also, I spent several days sewing garments by hand, using scraps of fabric and random secondhand things, so everything is just... everywhere. A total mess. I would have to clean up everything in one space first, dress the mannequin (which is only a sewing mannequin, not a display one,) and EVEN THEN this small apartment does not look attractive for staging kimono. My partner gave me an idea: there are two places nearby, which each have a "Japanese-style" room. Wood floor, no tatami, but sliding doors and a quiet atmosphere. 

Kaleisia Tea Lounge let me take photos there, so long as it wasn't too busy or taking up a lot of room, and it didn't bother other guests. And there was already lighting one could expect if wearing kimono indoors in a more traditional place. I think it is lucky they are here. Also, there was enough Vietnamese coffee and genmaicha to power me through.

(yes, yes, very cool. get on with it.)

The first set:

The kimono + fan came from Kazuma. The other items are from my collection.

The single-layer synthetic kimono reads as an odori piece, so I'm treating it as one. 

It's paired with a gold odori obi with a large kikko pattern and bold red accessories.

The collar and obiage match in fabric type (ro) but I don't have a red summer obijime (the cord on the obi belt.) I thought one might not have the right effect if this were on stage anyways. The fan is also for dance performances.

I think now, I should have done bunka musubi, but I went with a long hanging obi inspired by geisha in Tokyo area. The back of the odori obi is a plain white canvas backing. Yanagi musubi might have been possible to do better after all, but I think bunka musubi would have been better if I'd thought of it then...

 

The second set:

For this, I chose entirely summer items, ro whenever possible to match the juban. This only features the summer obijime from the lot.

The nearly-black colour kimono with pampass grass is a symbol of deep summer and a hope for coming coolness. Dark eggplant purple and brilliant gold is another summer choice, linking with January references to eggplant and a desire for cool weather. The obi is tied in a big, airy otaiko in an asymmetric knot, a reference to days of kitsuke long gone by.

The brilliant red obiage is a classic pairing, and the nearly-white blue obijime is the colour of snow. They stand out against the colour of the obi very well. The obijime very nearly matches the grass pattern.

The fan tucked into the obi is made of light-coloured wood (dark wood is for autumn and winter) and has a simple pattern of swirling green maple leaves, tinged in gold. Momiji (maple) will not become gold until later in Autumn. 

Right now, green and black are a vibrant combination. The gold in the fan pairs with the gold in the obi. Hints of a breeze also evoke a cool feeling. 

The third set:

For the last set, the fukuro obi and michiyuki are from Kazuma.

Indoors, the photos for this set look very dark. The bright colours are lost. So is the metallic shine in the obi. It looks better in person. The light plays on the shining threads as the wearer moves. But in photos, it can be too dark and dull.

I picked a bold floral hitoe kimono with komono (accessories, lit. "small things") that were bright and cheerful. The collar and obijime match here, pulling from the purple details in the flowers. The obi also has elements of orange and gold, akin to the orange and yellow in the flowers. The white silk obiage has cute triangles of bright colours, in pinks, yellow, orange, and turquoise.

I wanted to make something a fun 20-something year old person would wear out with friends. Something "not boring."

I started with a musubi that is not ginza/tsunodashi, otaiko, or ribon (ribbon). Something cute! Fluffy looking! Effeminate! Something that in passing, is layered and has curves like the tiny flowers in the kimono. I hope I was successful.

The obiage too, I wanted to be youthful but not childish or too "formal" like a furisode. Especially since the "creative" musubi (knot in the back of the obi) are too often reserved only for the long-sleeved formal kimono. Hnnn. I wrapped it in a way to show off the colourful patterns and tucked in one side to make a cute ruffle, again to mimic the obi and kimono pattern.

A plain obijime then, would be boring by contrast... so maybe don't make it TOO showy, like it's a furisode, but a little bit wavy and fanciful. 

The burgundy michiyuki is somewhat in line with the colour. It looks very dark and subtle in this lighting, and was very slightly too small because of the size of the obi musubi. A michiyuki is like a rain or snow layer to keep water off the obi and sleeves. It is also nice to have for warmth when you'd like one. Modern michiyuki are short like this. Only very old or custom-made, "retro-style" are made longer.

But I did want to show each item from this lot somehow. I thought the tones of the red would work well enough with the rich blue colour, and the sleeves fit well.

Already, the weather is becoming too hot to wear 'real layers,' despite how much I like them. I will have to stock up on summer clothing that isn't stained or purely synthetic, which is monstrous in this heat. It is easiest to clean and the worst thing to wear! Wish me luck.